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Author Topic: 2950 fuel tank replacement  (Read 2127 times)
landescaper
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« on: July 23, 2010, 02:16:32 PM »

Ok, I have a leak on the starboard fuel tank of my beloved 2950 (not something you want to discover 50 miles in the gulf, but oh well).  Does someone know how to remove the tank short of a lot of cutting and glass work?  Is it as hard as it looks?  My boat is a 95' w/outboards but w/the hatch configuration of inboards and the 110 gal tanks.  Please help!!!
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231CALIFORNIA
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« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2010, 04:14:00 PM »

send photo of cockpit deck,good chance saw will be required.
this is one of the big proline fears.
boat websights are full of tank replacement stories and techniques.
If there is not access hatch cutting is normally required.
be carefull both of the fule and what you cut to get to the tank.
some things are easier to patch back up than others.
 ITs not just prolines that have difficulty in this area.
sealed deck does help keep water off tank but once the aluminum is corroded It makes you wish you had a different make of boat or a different tank material.
even plastic tanks have problems but corrosion of bottom and sides is not one of them as far as I know.
Some people swear by coatings on repacemnt tanks and others say they are useless but once you have cut a deck and pulled a tank while others are fishing you will probably wnat to aviod repetition. |:(
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Skipper 231 Walkaround
landescaper
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« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2010, 04:32:39 PM »

thanks for the reply 231.  I really hate this situation and the fact that everyone seems to be scratching their watch and winding their a$$, as if mine is the first boat in history to have a fuel leak.  Why is the tank mounted in such a manner that to remove it calls for major destruction?  I am almost to the point where I want to cut out the tank and replace w/two 55 gal tanks.  Thoughts?  (repair Quote is over $10k)  We will see what insurance has to say.
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231CALIFORNIA
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« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2010, 05:27:46 PM »

That is an option.
2*55gal
No one wants to do this kind of work without being paid heavily.
If you are a good DIY type you can likely do it. BUT its not easy.
Doubt insurance would cover it.
Unless caused by Accident or something.
Often you need to cut it free from foam and use a come along to lift it free.
patching deck and restoring it to former structural integrity and decent finish is a Be atch. Getting tank out mainly requires draining,cutting, disconnecting , freeing lifting & cleanup./disposal.
puting it back entails meassuring ,ordering ,connecting , securing ,RE STructuring and REDECKING. the easy part is often buying new tank.
Where are you located?
somene may know a better tank exchanger deal  .But it is not fun work and the re install can be tough.
some will comrpromise on the reinstall cosmettics to save money as a fishing boat deck doesent have to be a thing of beauty but how crude you can justify is another question. Safety has to come first.
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Skipper 231 Walkaround
seabob4
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2010, 02:19:03 PM »

I've worked for 5 different boat companies.  Wellcraft, Hydra-Sports, Intrepid, Stamas Yacht, and Proline.  HS, Intrepid, and Stamas had tank hatches.  A bit of work to get the tank(s) out, but no deck surgery.  WC and PL?  Sawsall, against my better judgement.  Sometimes the people that call the shots don't really give a rats ass if your tank leaks down the line sometime...
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landescaper
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« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2010, 02:38:22 PM »

gotcha seabob.  It looked like I could cut the bottom of the fishbox to side it past a out the hatch, thus no deck damage but idk.  I guess is was hoping to find someone that has already been there and could provide a proven procedure.  P.S.  there are two impact marks from hitting something floating offshore, thus the insurance comment.  One mark is directly below the tank (a pretty nasty looking star that shows through the bottom paint). 
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56 sport
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« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2010, 05:56:22 PM »

lots of beer ,saw ,more beer
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231CALIFORNIA
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« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2010, 07:31:50 PM »

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

just some thoughts. see above , just google the subject you will learn a lot.

I didnt  drink a lot of beer while doing  the one in my other boat, an old  Thunderbird. Dont drink when working with gasoline and Saws.
there were no internet resources back then, jsut think ,saw, remove , replace.
The deck was glassed plywood so  I Just put a resin soaked 3/4 inch ply over the top of old deck,  Stainless Steel Screwed it to rest of  existing deck  a bunch of places  away from tank  area tossed some carpet over it and went fishing.
with the proline  a big issue is working around the fish boxes,  could be hard to restore ?

good luck and if you learn anything post it. you will /could benefit many.



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Skipper 231 Walkaround
landescaper
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2010, 08:49:12 AM »

What I have learned so far:  Most larger tanks have inspections hatches.  I could leave the tank in place, cut an inspection hatch, repair the tank from the inside (weld, spray sealer, roll-on sealer, whatever...), install plate/gasket and voila', a better thank than when I started.  If all goes well I may consider doing the other tank as a preventative measure and add inspections to my seasonal maintenance.  What do you guys think?  P.S. I'm sure beer will be involved somewhere!
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seabob4
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2010, 10:41:30 AM »

Landescaper,
Do you know where your leak is?  I mean, if it's on top, your theory may be plausable, but any where else and I'd say that tank has to come out...
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landescaper
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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2010, 05:43:04 PM »

seabob,  why would it matter where the leak is?  If I have full access to the inside of the tank can't I make any repair anywhere.  the leak is somewhere on the backside but not the bottom as there is still fuel in the tank when the leak has stopped.  I know of your expertise and really value you comments.  thanks for the reply.
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231CALIFORNIA
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2010, 08:51:49 PM »

you often need access to both sides , you have to ascertain the extent of the damaged area, otherwise you might be patching aluminum foil or patching a foot away from a new leak about to spring.
I understand the impulse to patch from the inside , and would consider it.
there is even the epoxy coating type repair  from the inside . but you will likely still have to cut some of the deck . just not as much.and tank top plate relatively conventional repair.
unless your leak is  almost directly under sending unit or a deckplate.
Be assured I hope there is an easy way  as I may have to learn it form you to duplicate myself someday. |:(
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Skipper 231 Walkaround
seabob4
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2010, 11:46:37 AM »

Landescaper,
My bad, didn't realize you were going cut an inspection hatch in the tank itself...

If you feel you can safely do it, then that would be the obvious way to go.  But as 231Cal said, you may just be patching an area, only to have the rest of the tank be in a similar situation a couple months down the road...

If it were me, I'd be cutting the deck and pulling the tank...
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landescaper
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« Reply #13 on: July 27, 2010, 03:39:23 PM »

thanks for letting me bounce my ideas off ya'll.  meet w/state farm guy tomorrow, wish me luck.  I'll include some pictures next time.
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56 sport
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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2010, 07:17:26 PM »

Did you get my PM on sunday?
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