Pro-Line 2950 - Engine installation

[testlab]

Hi,

I am looking at buying a 2950 and repowering it.  Does anyone know if an engine installation/removal instuction manual exists and where I could buy one from?

Its for the twin gas setup - I want to know the factory recommended way to change engines. It looks impossible to remove the existing ones without dismantling the carbs, arrestors and so forth to get to the rear lift point.  I want to fit 5.0MPI or 5.7MPI and shoehorning them in looks to be as a big a challenge.

Were the engines slid in with the mounts attached and then bolted to the stringers?

Has anyone modified the rear cockpit wall to allow easier access to the rear of the engines and the stern drive grease points, transom fittings, etc.

Any advice greatly appeciated.

[C-Lark III]

Hi,

I am looking at buying a 2950 and repowering it.  Does anyone know if an engine installation/removal instuction manual exists and where I could buy one from?

Its for the twin gas setup - I want to know the factory recommended way to change engines. It looks impossible to remove the existing ones without dismantling the carbs, arrestors and so forth to get to the rear lift point.  I want to fit 5.0MPI or 5.7MPI and shoehorning them in looks to be as a big a challenge.

Were the engines slid in with the mounts attached and then bolted to the stringers?

Has anyone modified the rear cockpit wall to allow easier access to the rear of the engines and the stern drive grease points, transom fittings, etc.

Any advice greatly appeciated.

I have a 2950, and think it is a great boat.  I have seen the twin gas installations.  They are very tight, as you have mentioned.  You mentioned modifying the rear cockpit wall for better access.  I'm unaware of anyone who has done a modification, but my boat has twin diesels, and the rear wall has a removable panel, which could probably be done for your boat also.  See my posting from October 9,2009 -- You'll find it listed below  with a title "1993 2950 Walk -- Any info. will help".  Go to the bottom of page two of the posting, and there's a picture of the cockpit, with that section removed.  You might be able to do a similar modification to your boat, although your hatches may be different.  I have one large hatch.  Although it is removed in the photo, there is an aluminum post that mounts on the center stringer between the engines, and an aluminum channel iron that spans from the front of the hatch opening to the rear, and which rests on the top of the post.  The removable rear section (shown sitting on top of the rear of the cockpit) bolts onto the end of the channel iron.
Hope this helps.  If more photos would be helpful, drop me an email and I'll send them to you by email.  (Click on the blue "C-Lark III" at the top left corner of this posting, and you'll see my email address)

Jim

[testlab]

Thanks very much for that info. I've looked at yours and would love to find a diesel one.  Maybe I will go diesel when repowering.

That hatch set up on yours is great. I guess there is nothing structural in the rear wall and it can be modified with some blood, sweat and tears.

[C-Lark III]

Thanks very much for that info. I've looked at yours and would love to find a diesel one.  Maybe I will go diesel when repowering.

That hatch set up on yours is great. I guess there is nothing structural in the rear wall and it can be modified with some blood, sweat and tears.

I don't think it would be a real big deal to make the modification to the rear wall.  Nothing structural there -- almost all the strength comes from the transom.  And with the vertical bracing, should be plenty strong.  There are a couple of significant factors to consider when re-powering.  There was another man that blew an engine on his 2950 (It had the Merc. 350 I/O's with Bravo stern drives).  He was considering repowering with diesels, and I discovered that Cummins makes marine diesels for the Mercruiser stern drives.  But he found that the conversion would require new stern drives also -- the Bravo's have a diesel version and a gas version.  So, with new engines and stern drives, he was looking at about $60K !
The engines in my boat are Volvo Penta AD41B's.  The AD41 series started with the "AD41A", then "B", then "D", then "P" suffix (eg., AD41P).  They are all very similar - some minor revisions, but all turbocharged 6 cylinder 200HP.  They have a great "bulletproof" reputation.  You can see some info. on another website "The Hull Truth".  Good access between engines for maintenance, and no electricals, of course.  (Plugs, points, distributor, etc.)
About a year ago, there was a 2950 with the same twin diesels advertised for sale I think in the Los Angeles or San Francisco area -- possibly San Diego.  Might be worth looking into.  You could do a complete overhaul of both of them for a lot less than new diesels, and avoid the cost of the conversions that would have to go with swapping out gas for diesel.
A second option:  There is a 1993 2950 for sale in Portland, OR with new Mercruiser 350's and new Bravo stern drives.  Asking price is 49,995.  At least it has the fresh engines, which is a pretty big deal.  I saw it at a yacht broker about 2 months ago, and can get you their contact info. if you'd like.
Just some of my thoughts.
I'm not sure where you're located -- but if you could get to my "stomping grounds", you're sure welcome to take a look at my layout, to see what it looks like "in person".  I live in SW Washington State, about 12 miles from Portland, Oregon.

• apenny