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harryh
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« Reply #30 on: January 17, 2010, 09:33:11 AM »

Hey Bob.  I just joined this forum and posted the following before I saw your post, so I'm reposting the question below hoping you might be able to help.

I just found this forum and joined.  I recently bought a 2000 20' Sport CC.  I'm having a problem with the spreader lights tripping a breaker.  I pulled the panel with all the switches on it and the wiring is a mess.  The switch for the spreader lights has a wire running the the breaker directly above the switch and another wire from the switch running to the breaker directly above the switch next to it, which is the breaker that is tripping.   I don't know much about DC wiring but am learning as I go.   

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to how to fix this wiring issue?
Does anyone know where to get a wiring schematic for this boat? I know this may not help with this specific issue but for other issues it would help.

Thanks in advance.
Harry
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seabob4
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« Reply #31 on: January 17, 2010, 12:06:15 PM »

Harry,
Sorry to hear about the sad state of your wiring behind the helm.  But at 10 years old, god knows how many people have had their fingers in that pie...

That being said, I thought a visual would help:


This a pic of the panel I just did on a '98 183 Flats.  Now, you see 10GA jumpers going from breaker to breaker (the smaller rectangles).  The main feed to the helm feeds the first breaker in line, then is daisy-chained to feed the rest of the breakers.  Now, the 14GA orange wires come off the top terminals of the each breaker and feed each individual switch, terminated on the middle post of the switch.  Your "Spreader Light" switch should have a blue (maybe with a stripe) wire terminating on the bottom post of the switch.  This feeds the lights when the switch is turned on.

So, that is basically a "pictorial" schematic.  Now, why is your breaker tripping?  Several possible reasons.  1) The breaker is not the correct amperage.  It should be 15A.  2 spreaders will probably draw around 12A, more as they get warm.  2) The breaker may have quite a bit of corrosion, which would increase the resistance across the terminals, and the breaker may trip due to thermal overload rather than over-amperage.  The easiest way to check for that is to put a meter on the breaker and see what kind of resistance is there.  3) The wiring itself may be corroded, which is basically the same characteristics as a corroded breaker.  Corrosion shows up on wiring in the form of a black coloring on the shiny copper.

The panel you see above is "from scratch".  Every wire, switch, and breaker is brand new as the condition of all the parts was so bad corrosion-wise, I just had to chuck it all and start over.  And this boat is only 2 years older than yours.  She now has complete new wiring stem-to-stern, and the owner is very happy with it.  I also re-did all his fuel lines, but that's another story... Undecided

Hope this helps.

Bob C
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mkalink
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« Reply #32 on: January 17, 2010, 02:13:34 PM »

Bob, I was wondering if you could help me out. I have spent a good portion of this weekend on-line looking for switch caps for my 2003 250 Sport. I can not find exactly what I am looking for anywhere. Do you stock these at Proline? If so here is a list of what I need. All are white (horn, bait well, raw water washdown, fishbox pump, fresh water, bilge, nav lights, cockpit lights, cabin lights, bait well light, and 3-ACC's, 13 in all. If you are able to help me here I would appreciate it. You can reach me @ mkalink@aol.com
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seabob4
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« Reply #33 on: January 17, 2010, 02:48:39 PM »

Do they look something like this?



C-Lark just posted this source this morn.  Great Lakes Skipper.  I've dealt with them before, good people.

Bob C
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harryh
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« Reply #34 on: January 17, 2010, 02:53:20 PM »

Seabob,

Thanks for the response and the pic.  I might run out to the boat storage tomorrow and take a pic of the current wiring to compare to your pic.   I also might just post that pic back to you. 

BTW, where is the pro-line plant located?  I'm in Riverview, right outside of Tampa.

Thanks,
Harry
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seabob4
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« Reply #35 on: January 17, 2010, 03:11:04 PM »

Harry,
Proline is right on 19 in Homosassa, couple miles north of "downtown" Homosassa Springs, if you want to call it that (!), west side of the road.  I live in Weeki Wachee, couple miles east of 19 off of SR 50.  I know where Riverview is, used to live in Bradenton when I worked at Wellcraft.

Do you know how to post pics on here?  Best way is with photobucket... Thumbs Up

Bob C

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mkalink
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« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2010, 11:41:45 PM »

Yes Bob that is it, I checked out the site c-lark suggested but they didn't have all of the ones I needed. Plus I would rather give Proline the business being that I have bothered them with questions which they have graciously answered and they have not made a cent off of me.
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probryans
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« Reply #37 on: February 22, 2010, 08:10:46 PM »

Bob, I have a 1999 241 and the gas vent is broken off. The only way I can figure to access that area is to cut an access hole. Is this correct or am I missing something? Not sure if it matters but it located on the port side.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2010, 08:15:47 PM by probryans » Logged
seabob4
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« Reply #38 on: February 22, 2010, 08:15:35 PM »

Bryan,
Is their a removable access pie in the area of your fuel fill?  Remove that and you should be able to feel around and find your vent fitting... Wink

Bob C
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probryans
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« Reply #39 on: February 23, 2010, 07:19:10 PM »

The fuel fill is on the starboard side with access but the vent is on the port side without any access that I can find. There is def. no access pie. I'm guessing I'll have to add one but I'm also worried about whats right behind that area (wire plumbing etc...). Its directly across from the gas fill but mounted on the side of the boat.
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seabob4
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« Reply #40 on: February 23, 2010, 11:56:52 PM »

The fuel fill is on the starboard side with access but the vent is on the port side without any access that I can find. There is def. no access pie. I'm guessing I'll have to add one but I'm also worried about whats right behind that area (wire plumbing etc...). Its directly across from the gas fill but mounted on the side of the boat.

Bryan,
Are you sure the port side vent fitting is not for a water tank?  No builder, Proline included, locates the gas fill on one side of the boat and the vent on the other side... Huh?
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probryans
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« Reply #41 on: February 24, 2010, 09:10:33 AM »

You know I was thinking about the water tank as I was typing that. I'll have to look tonight but I don't recall a vent on the other side of the boat. Do you know if proline has the vent in woth the cap/fill part.
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seabob4
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« Reply #42 on: February 24, 2010, 11:47:28 AM »

Bryan,
Currently (I can't speak for your boat) we use this one on the Pro-Lites and the 20 Sport/Express.


But only on the fuel fill.
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a7ewizard
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« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2010, 12:22:48 PM »

You know I was thinking about the water tank as I was typing that. I'll have to look tonight but I don't recall a vent on the other side of the boat. Do you know if proline has the vent in woth the cap/fill part.

Search Perko for the fuel vent. If it is like mine on a 251, it will have an angled barb attachment and a chromed pie shaped hood.

Warren
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'98 251 w/ VP 5.7 duo-prop
'06 24 SS w/ 225 Suzuki
probryans
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« Reply #44 on: February 25, 2010, 02:58:48 PM »

Bryan,
Currently (I can't speak for your boat) we use this one on the Pro-Lites and the 20 Sport/Express.


But only on the fuel fill.

That looks like the one on my boat and I'm guessing that a vented cap. I forgot to check this morning but I'm about a 100% that I dont have a vent on the starboard side. I'll check tonight and I'll also pull off the access and should be able to see the vent line. I hope that's it because I can let the water tank vent slide for now.
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