fuel tank 231 wa

[seabob4]

If you are talking about a honeycomb material sandwiched between the glass on the sole and the glass under the sole it is coreing material designed to add strength while keeping the weight down, And yes it is a poly plastic.

And that would be Nidacore!  Didn't realize the top meant the middle...

[justjon]

What about having a tank made to fit inside the old one?
Maybe just maybe less deck damage?  just a thought

 

[56 sport]

What about having a tank made to fit inside the old one?
Maybe just maybe less deck damage?  just a thought

 

That is a option,but after cutting the deck,removing the baffles,cutting out the fuel pickups ,etc.It might be easier just to remove the entire tank.Plus if i did install a (slip in tank) the collection of water has no place to drain.I would like to know how to replace to factory finish.

[56 sport]

seabob 4 did you receive my PM ?The wife was changing the computer around tonight.

[seabob4]

Yep, comes to me as an email also.  I'll get with you later...

[Hugh]

Somewhere in my meanderings I saw a website where they cut out the side of the hull and dropped the tank versus cutting the deck.  I'm not saying it would be easier, better or cheaper, but possibly worth a moment's consideration.

Another thought...a bladder insert.  I really don't like the idea of losing the sending unit and having to rely on a fuel totalizer to keep track of gallons burned, however, it would be oh so sweet if you could make a dinky cut and slip in a bladder...sort of like a heart vein stent.

Here's a couple of companies that make bladders, and by searching google you can find even more (I used 'bladder tanks for boats'): http://www.atlinc.com/pillow.html?gclid=CPmOy-Kzn6ACFag65Qodv3YLaQ 
http://www.turtlepac.com/marinetanks.htm

I'd enjoy seeing someone make this solution work, then get out there and help other boaters with leaky tanks

[56 sport]

Thank you everybody with your ideas. This is not project I am willing to just "solve the problem". This tank is coming out the deck.When in doubt get a bigger hammer and a saw. I will try to post as much info and pictures as i can during the project.With that being said the battery's for the saw's are charging.

[Hugh]

This is my weapon of mass destruction...the corded version never complains...my battery demo saw always quits too early.  Have fun!

[seabob4]

This is my weapon of mass destruction...the corded version never complains...my battery demo saw always quits too early.  Have fun!

Hugh, Don't you know?  That is a pic of a "Precision Adjustment Tool"...it's all relative!

In response to your earlier post about cutting a hole in the side of the hull...not a bad idea, but in the case of a Proline, not a good idea.  First you have the foam inbetween the hullside and outboard stringer to deal with.  Then you have to cut-out the outboard stringer.  Then the fishbox, or more foam.  Then the inboard stringer next to the fuel tank.  And all that has to be cut at the length needed to pull the fuel tank out.  Once the new tank was in place and secured (good luck doing that!), the stringers have to be glassed back in (with no access), everything has to be refoamed, and the hull side has to be glassed back in (once again with no access) and finished back to it's original shine.

That sawsall would get some serious work, if you know what I mean...not to mention a 6' prybar and a 20lb sledge...

[231CALIFORNIA]

Through the side, through the transom or through the keel or bow?
Its all back to rebuilding the engine throught the tailpipe.
I would have lsss issue with a bladder as my flowscan totalizer is far more accurate than guage and you could likely watch a a bladders size change though the deckplate if required.
are bladders USCG Approved/certified for gasoline in enclosed compartments? Ethanol friendly, etc? sounds promissing, and far less intrusive, small hole compared to 140gallon class tank?

sawzall and  super blades are  heavily required in  other scenarios arent they.

or if you could live with short range
mothball  the in hull tank in place, turn it into a fishbox or locker if you want .
and maybe build a pair of saddle tanks into the under gunnel rod storge area
(lossing their use) and lowering fuel capacity to about 30-32 gallons est per side
depending on design ? for about 64gallons total? 55 useable.
wouldnt be enough for me but good for nearshore fishing, and it beats a boat with a 6gallon can on deck.
maybe a few more spaces for the creative?

but Im hopeing the sawzall surgery and recovery is successful and reasonable.

[Hugh]

This is how we slip-line damaged storm and sanitary sewer lines on campus:

http://www.perma-liner.com/perma_lateral.html

Basically, the sock arrives in a pickup truck bed full of ice, already full of resin.  Cold water is used to inflate the sock into the sewer line, then hot water is circulated to cure the pipe.  The end result is a smaller diameter, but much smoother pipe.  We drive a cutting sled with a camera down the pipe to cut out holes for the laterals that feed into the main.

With the right resins, it would be a neat technology to pursue for ethanol damaged boat tanks.  You'd lose some capacity, but the only other clue above deck would be a larger deck plate.  It would take about an hour to line a tank, and then some fiddling to remount the sending unit.  

In theory

[56 sport]

I allready have a flowscan ,2 gps ,2 fishfinders,radar,2 vhf radios .Compromizing the ablity of the vessel is not even a option. I agree with both seabob4 and 231calaifornia.IT IS COMING OUT THE DECK.Rip SH@@ or bust!

[Sick Leave]

First I apologize for just now chiming in on the party; I guess I’m more of a voyeur than I would like to admit.
I’ve been following 56 sport's dilemma as I recently bought my first boat (’96 231 I/O) which “needs a little TLC” , I’ve been reading everything I can to learn more on boating upkeep and wouldn’t be surprised if I’m facing the same problem at some point. This being my first boat, I’m not too savy on all things boat, but I’ve quite a bit experience with restoring cars and this problem doesn’t appear much different.  Has anyone considered draining/cleaning the tank of remaining fuel, installing an access hatch in the deck of sufficient size (~2x3) and cutting this section out of the tank which would allow one enough access to thoroughly prep the tank and then spay (or brush) in some POR15 fuel tank sealer (or one of their many fuel tank restoration kits), then welding the section back in.  There are other brands out there (eastwood, moyer, etc…) that would probably be fine for a relatively small leak…this tank doesn’t sound like a lost cause and you shouldn’t have to replace the entire unit.   Hope this helps (and isn’t too late).
BTW, hello everyone and happy B-day! (proline forum)

[56 sport]

sickleave patching / welding ,repairing is not a option I will take with my family and fishing friends.Thank you for your post and welcome to the boating world.

[seabob4]

First I apologize for just now chiming in on the party; I guess I’m more of a voyeur than I would like to admit.
I’ve been following 56 sport's dilemma as I recently bought my first boat (’96 231 I/O) which “needs a little TLC” , I’ve been reading everything I can to learn more on boating upkeep and wouldn’t be surprised if I’m facing the same problem at some point. This being my first boat, I’m not too savy on all things boat, but I’ve quite a bit experience with restoring cars and this problem doesn’t appear much different.  Has anyone considered draining/cleaning the tank of remaining fuel, installing an access hatch in the deck of sufficient size (~2x3) and cutting this section out of the tank which would allow one enough access to thoroughly prep the tank and then spay (or brush) in some POR15 fuel tank sealer (or one of their many fuel tank restoration kits), then welding the section back in.  There are other brands out there (eastwood, moyer, etc…) that would probably be fine for a relatively small leak…this tank doesn’t sound like a lost cause and you shouldn’t have to replace the entire unit.   Hope this helps (and isn’t too late).
BTW, hello everyone and happy B-day! (proline forum)

SL,
First, welcome to Proline Owners forum, and congrats on you "new to you" Proline!

Fuel tanks are a bit different on boats than on cars or trucks.  For one, their accessability is almost nil, other than cutting the floor open and removing it.  Brian would have to do that either by replacing or fixing it in the method you described.  Second, once he gets the tank out and repairs it per your metods, there is no guaranty that the "fix" will hold, and couple that with the fact that he will probably reinstall the tank in the same manner it was installed, which means that should something go wrong, he has to go through the same process again...

Nope, in the marine world, when a tank leaks, get rid of it!  You cannot pull over, get out of the boat, and call a cab 20 miles offshore.  Everything in the entire fuel system MUST be in perfect working order.  It is not something that I, or anyone else I know, would subject themselves, loved ones, friends, or even BILs to.

The marine world and the automotive world are not to closely related, if you know what I mean...

But we are glad to have you aboard, and we welcome your input about your new boat!  Sorry to be such a hardass, but they are are two different animals...

Bob C

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