'97 170 Sportsman

[SteveB]

Hey Guys.....

Just bought my first boat, a '97 170 CC with custom TT and a Force 90HP....I got a good deal on it, trailer and all, but there are a few little things I need to fix/tweak.  Does anybody know where I can source the full technical spec., owner's manual, drawings etc. for the boat?
I need to fix the fuel tank sender and/or wiring/guage as according to the previous owner it's not reliable - bounces all over the place.  I want to be sure of what i have in the tank and also need for fueling......
The previous owner also re-wired and took out the baitwell (port aft corner) in favour of a deck light fitting.  I intend to use the baitwell and want to re-connect.  There a few 'electrical boxes' in the battery compartment that are disconnected.....

Thanks all....

Steve

Tampa

[Admin]

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[seabob4]

Steve,
As our fine administrator posted, Welcome!  The good news is your in Tampa.  I'm in Hudson. 

Now, to answer your questions.  First, your fuel gauge.  You should have 3 wires on the backside, pink, black, and purple (I'm assuming purple as Force was part of the Merc family '97, ignition power is purple).  Make sure they are tight on their studs.  Then check the continuity between the black wire on your gauge and the black wire coming off your tank sender.  Gauge "bouncing" is typically a sign of a bad ground.

Second, if the privious owner simply cut the leads to the baitwell pump and wired up a light fixture to them, then it is just a matter of cutting the leads from the helm and terminating back to the livewell pump.  Just be cognizant that the pump hasn't been used in a few years, and if it is the original, it just plain may not work anymore.

Third, think about what you have electrically on a 17.  Not much.  Bilge pump and float, livewell pump, anchor light, that's about it in the bilge.  Forward, you have your horn and your nav lights.  Now, if all this normal equipment works, just what did those disconnected wires power?  Time to do a little poking around.

Any questions, fire away. 

If your not comfortable doing this, I can be of some service.  For a fair price!

 

[SteveB]

Thanks Bob - I intend to get in the holes and trace the wiring system so I have a good wiring diagram mark-up for the 'mods'.  Poking around this weekend I found a Minn kota variable resistor (FWD-OFF-REV) dangling under the CC and black box with terminated cabling coming from it in the battery comp. marked minn kota - there seems to ne no previous mounts or indeed filled in holes for a trolling motor any where on the hull, but further investigation will tell.....
I'll be taking off the baitwell inspection cover this week to check the pump and wiring - as you mention, should be a simple fix to re-connect from the light fitting.....I'll service the pump whilst I'm at it.....
I also have a FF and GPS fitted, the GPS is an old Raymarine 35 and I haven't really used it as yet, want to get a nice new one with colour chart plot.....
It also looks like the fuel/water separator hasn't been changed for a while - with a telescopic mirror I could make out 'global filtration technology' on the filter - is there a recommended brand....?  Would quite like one of the perspex bowl variety...nice tell-tale.
I'll change that also this week along with the plugs (recommended brand?).

We had her out at the weekend just around teh intercoastals at Redington Shore, performed well apart from one engine stall whilst cruising at WOT in the channel, managed to get her started again before reaching for the anchor!

Thanks

Steve

[seabob4]

Steve,
Well, she sounds like she performs well.  One thing I would do, and it most likely has to do with your stall condition, would be to redo the fuel delivery system with new hoses.  Don't worry about your fill and vent, but run all new 3/8" hose for your feed.  Now we use Sierra Fuel/water separators, which don't have see-through bowls.  I am a big fan of Racors, and I like the see-through bowl, not the metal one.  That is the one I would install.  Also check the fuel lines on the powerhead, and DEFINITELY install a new primer bulb.  I have a brand new Suzuki bulb laying around doing nothing, $10 and it's yours.  BTW, "global filtration technology" says to me Racor. 

The Minn-Kota relay and control box may have been for a clamp-on motor, which would explain why there were no mounting holes.  Hard to say, but that's my guess.

As far as plugs, I'm betting NGKs.  Frankly, I think they are a superior brand, and I have found that engines that used and specified NGKs didn't run worth a crap on anything but NGKs.  I have a Nissan Maxima and a Volvo 245 Turbo, and they both get NGKs, and that is all they'll get...

Any other questions, feel free.

Bob C

[SteveB]

Thanks Bob,

I'll check the fuel hoses and change-out what I can, I have a spare bulb so will fit that - thanks for the offer.  Also I'll go with the NGK plugs.  I'll go with the Racor also.....
I got in the boat last night to check out the fuel gauge connections - all seems well.  Which access cover should I be looking at to check the fuel tank level sender?  The large cover under the helm seat or the one in front of the CC?  I wish I had some drawings/schematics!
I also checked out the connections for the baitwell pump- curious!  No visible terminated wiring in the CC from the baitwell switch where he connected the light fitting and after removing the port aft inspection cover to look under the baitwell I only see a hose conected from the baitwell drain hole to the o/b discharge above the waterline.  Shouldn't the disconnected pump be in this void space if it wherever fitted?  (back to the need for those drawings/schematics).


Thanks again - I saw in another post that you're currently on 'down-time' at Proline.....what's your hourly rate to fix stuff like this....?

Cheers

Steve

[seabob4]

Steve,
The aft fuel tank access pie is where the sender lives.  Pull it out, move the float up and down with the ign switch on, and observe your fuel gauge.  If you're good with a meter, the resistance between the leads should be 80-240 OHMS.  Also put a meter on the ground and check for continuity.

The livewell pump should have been mounted directly to the seacock/shutoff valve with a 3/4" hose running to the livewell.  Located by your bilge pump.

If you would like me to take a look, well, check your PM.

[SteveB]

thanks Bob - approximately where will I find the aft fuel tank access pipe.....?

Steve

[seabob4]

The one under the helm seat.  That is where your fuel pickup is located also.

Bob C

[SteveB]

perfect...thanks....will have my head in there tonight.......

Steve

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