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Author Topic: Flushing Motor  (Read 1916 times)
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seabob4
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« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2009, 08:34:11 PM »

Hugh,

First and foremost, I probably need to offer an apology for my post the other day.  Brad and I are by no means "experts" in the field of boat building, however your approach seems to come on a little strong, and I think that is what prompted the response.

One of the things I try and do here is to 1) educate the owner (if I can) about their boat, and 2) give them a little bit of common-sensical advice on their particular problem so that thay can get back on the water, maintaining their boats sea-worthiness and integrity.  Does it meet NMMA/ABYC, CE, or AUS/NZ regs?  Maybe not, it just has to satisfy the Coasties.  You have done some wonderful research on various issues, and have posted some interesting, albeit lengthy, dissertations on various subjects...to the point where it may be some overkill.  THT is famous for 50 people responding to a question like, "What's the red wire, and what's the black?", when the first responder answered what the OP wanted to know.

Hope I have explained my self, and I hope you continue to contribute as you have been doing...just tone it down a bit!  Wink Cheers

Bob C
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Victor
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My 2008 23 SPORT


« Reply #16 on: November 10, 2009, 05:28:52 PM »

Bob,

Huston I have a problem. I went and purchased a pair of muffs and installed them on the motor over the two square in take vents on the lower unit of my out board behind the prop (as I have seen done on many different motors many different times and yes the hose was on). I turned on the motor and I immediately noticed that no water was shooting out of all the pee holes around the motor. I then thought that the motor had to be in gear to turn on this function so I gently put the motor in gear and still no water from the pee holes. after a second or two an alarm started to sound and the left red light over the key switch turned on. I think the symbol over the light is a water warning. I immediately shut down the motor. The motor wasn't on for more then 2 or 3 mininuts. I then dismantled the muffs and connected the hose directly to the motor without the motor on of course and water started to shoot out of every pee hole and prop as usual. Are you sure that I can use the muffs with my particular motor as you stated on Oct. 30.
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seabob4
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« Reply #17 on: November 10, 2009, 08:10:37 PM »

We run ALL our Hondas on muffs...NEVER the hose port.  For that matter, we run ALL motors, be them Verados, Optis, Suzukis, Etecs, on muffs.

Sounds there may be a blockage issue...
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Victor
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« Reply #18 on: November 11, 2009, 01:14:31 AM »

Bob,

  If when I connected the water to the hose port the water flows fine, then I assume that the blocage is in the lower unit. What do you suggest that I do to unblock this?

Do you know if water should come out of the square in take vents when I connect the hose port? I saw water coming out of the prop and all the small holes all around the motor but I am not sure about the in takes. I don't understand, it was running fine the last time I used the boat about 15 day's ago.
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seabob4
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« Reply #19 on: November 11, 2009, 08:59:02 AM »

Victor,
To verify a LU blockage issue, fill a 5 gallon bucket of water and tilt down the LU into it.  This will simulate real world conditions.  See if you get a telltale then.

Remember, the little rectangular thing seen here on a 225 LU is where the muffs go.

http://www.honda-marine.com/modelDetail.aspx?modelGroup=BF225

Bob C
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togators
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« Reply #20 on: November 11, 2009, 09:10:35 AM »

Victor,
For what it is worth, I bought my 2008 proline 23 sport a few months ago with the 225 Honda.  In the walk-through, the service tech told me to always use the side hose connection and it is not necessary, but is fine to run engine using the connection.  He then told me do not use the muffs or I will cause sometype of damage.  (Didn't make sense to me, but this was my first with the flush adapter and I was busy learning about the boat with wife, kid, etc).    I have read many of Bob's post and I consider him an expert, but that is what the service tech said.....
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Victor
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« Reply #21 on: November 11, 2009, 10:31:59 AM »

Bob,

 That is exactly where I am installing the muffs. I will try the bucket after work and let you know the results. How long can I let her run without causing damage if the water is not flowing?

Togators,

Be careful and check your manual. I believe that the Honda owners manual for 225 V-TEC. tells you NOT to run the motor with the hose port. That is why I am attempting to use the muffs. 
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togators
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« Reply #22 on: November 11, 2009, 12:24:47 PM »

Victor,
You are correct, good thing I have never run her with the hose.  I am glad I read these threads and not just default to the techs at the dealership.  Good luck with the bucket scenario.
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seabob4
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« Reply #23 on: November 11, 2009, 01:13:48 PM »

victor, togators,
Something weird is going on here.  As I said, we ALWAYS run all of of our motors on muffs...

Many years ago, when I was at Intrepid, I was going to run a pair of Yamaha OX66 250s.  I thought I'd be lazy and use the hose ports.  I was quickly told that all motors get run on muffs...

Tell you what.  Let me contact my friend at Honda of America.  He'll tell me the deal...

Bob C 
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seabob4
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« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2009, 01:35:30 PM »

Alright guys, just got off the phone with Dennis Ashley, Honda's southeast field engineer.  Hondas are meant to be run out of the water on earmuffs.  The hose port can be used, however RPMs should be kept at 1000 or below, and even then, 20 minutes or more will set off the overheat alarm, although the engine isn't overheating, the water flow just isn't strong enough.  In fact, on VERY warm engines, using the water port to flush is NOT recommended as the infusion of cold water through the port will cause the thermostats to close, and complete flushing action won't be achieved.  Honda is working on a fix, but until then, it's best to let the motor(s) coll off a bit before flushing with the hose port.  It has to do with the hose port's proximity to the t/stats.

I hope this solves the hose port/ear muff issue.  Victor, you need to insert a coat hanger or stiff wire into your pisser tube and see if you can dislodge anything.

Reason I'm home today?  Replace ball joints on the Maxima...but she's worth it! Cheers


Bob C
« Last Edit: November 11, 2009, 01:42:39 PM by seabob4 » Logged

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26walk
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« Reply #25 on: November 11, 2009, 02:02:33 PM »

Dang sharp looking ride there Bob even though it's not a boat! Grin
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seabob4
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« Reply #26 on: November 11, 2009, 03:25:01 PM »

26,
Thanks!  Bought an '87 Max new, just had to have another.  Her interior is damn near perfect, and she's a 5-speed.

Here's her stablemate:


'85 245 Turbo.  Lots of fun above 3K RPM...sorta like an O/B!

Bob C
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Victor
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« Reply #27 on: November 11, 2009, 11:08:48 PM »

Bob,

I read the reply. I didn't have time to try the bucket I had to work late.

I still don't understand how the blockage could be in the pisser tube if when I connect the hose to the port (with the motor off) and water flows from all orifices around the motor. Yet with the muffs nothing (motor off or on). None the less, I will try the bucket and the stiff wire A.S.A.P..

I wanted to use the boat this weekend, weather permitting. I hope I can sort this out in time. I will keep you posted.
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togators
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« Reply #28 on: November 12, 2009, 07:52:10 AM »

Bob,
Thank you for finding the correct answer.....
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seabob4
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« Reply #29 on: November 12, 2009, 07:34:02 PM »

Helps to know some people... Wink
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