Ahoy

[Hugh]

Bob,

Thanks for the ABYC reference...I'll see if I can scare up a copy.

The list above is just a quick shotgun google scatter.  I leave it to the reader to determine its value.  I haven't spent any time other than a cursory browse...if it looked cool, I kept the link for further reading.

Rewiring a boat is probably a muscle memory thing to folks like yourself who have breathed it for years.  For me, I just found out yesterday that boat wiring should be color coded

Up until then, I was satisfied to wire a boat like I would wire instrumentation at a power plant-which is how I rewired my first project 

I can tell you that the connections on my proline, whether to terminals or butt connectors are all open to corrosion.  No surprise given the vintage hull.  Had this rig been in the salt, it would have been rewired years ago.

I'll look at my fuel lines as well.  If they aren't ethanol resistant, they'll get the presto-chango as well. 

Labor it is...of love?  When it's done, yeah.  Until then...more like an nervous tick

[ppaulg]

Hi Guys, I found an ABYC chart at the Camco web site. You need to download the Marine Catalog to view it.

http://www.camco.net/catalog.cfm

I spent some time inspecting my wiring and once I broke loose all of the wire ties, it was not so bad.

Can anyone give me the proper breaker amps for the accessories? Only two still had their stickers.
Horn was 5 amp and bilge was 5 amp. They are push button style with spade connectors.
 I want to replace all and all toggles.
Need amps for nav lights, interior lights, deck lights, radios and all the rest.
Also interested in fuse sizes.

It looks like most have breaker and fuse... is this normal?

Thanks, Paul

[Hugh]

Thanks for the catalog link Paul.

I would recommend googling the brand of equipment you have and trying to find some specs for it.  If you can't find the exact equipment, then google the type of thing you're looking for (i.e., bow navigation light) and see what a similar unit draws.  

Another method is to use a clamp amp at the battery positive terminal.  Go to this link and see page 30.

Breaker and a fuse in series...maybe this is some marine science that I'm not familiar with.  Perhaps they left the in-line fuse with the accessory when they wired it to the breaker panel?  

Use one or the other, not both in series.  That's my $0.02.

[a7ewizard]

Can anyone give me the proper breaker amps for the accessories? Only two still had their stickers.
Horn was 5 amp and bilge was 5 amp.

These are the CB ratings for my helm switches for my '98 251:

5A: BLOWER, HORN, BILGE PUMP,COCKPIT LIGHTS, CABIN LIGHTS

7A: BAITWELL PUMP, WIPER

10A: NAV/ANCHOR LIGHTS, ACCESSORY

15A: FISHBOX PUMP, WASHDOWN PUMP, FRESH WATER PUMP

Warren

[seabob4]

Use one or the other, not both in series.  That's my $0.02.

You are exactly correct, sir.

[Hugh]

Maiden voyage...blew off work to go fishing with brother.  Nice day.  Water temp 55 at surface, air temp about 60.

Cannon at 100' with cheater at 50'



Manual at 80' with cheater at 40'



Bro with small laker.  We killed the lakers and salmon all day.  Cooler was full.




Lake smoothed out in the PM.  With 70 gallons of fuel, 450lbs of lard ass, 50 lbs of gear and full canvas we managed to squeak out 43mph.  

The kicker trolled for 7 hours and only used 2 gallons of gas.  

Considering Pacific salmon is $12/lb up here we'll be fishing all winter  

BTW, 18 gph on the floscan at WOT, that's a 150 mile range without the kicker, which has a separate 5 gallon tank and is good for another 20 miles.

[Hugh]

Took Vet's Day off with bro.  34F at 0500.  Fished till 1630.  Surface temp 51F.

Lakers and Salmon from 50-120ft with spoons and flys off cannon balls, cheaters and dipsys.  Bilge pump was spinning but not pumping...probably a plug of ice in the discharge hose 

[Cayuga230]

In the fingerlakes as well   Just bought a 230 WA with twin Sea Drives.  Getting it ready for a Summer on Cayuga. Have been a MAKO guy for the past 20 years and am keeping the CC but we need a bit more comfort and privacy.  The boat looks great!!

[Hugh]

Sounds like a great boat...grats  Let's hook up some time and compare notes and admire fiberglass

The wiring needs to get done, but we're too busy fishing to take it down for a month    Warm days in Nov, Dec, and Jan will be taken advantage of and we'll be on the lake.

Perhaps February will be so cold that I'll start the project.  I'll put the full cover up over the boat, plug in an electric heater or three and start working

A few lessons learned about cold weather fishing from Wednesday...1) A defroster of some kind is helpful for both sides of the windshield, especially if you're leaving the ramp while the stars are still out. 2) Better flush some antifreeze down the bilge discharge after each trip so a slug of water in the line doesn't freeze and dead head the pump.  3) It helps to have working wipers when the seas are up.  We were getting 3 footers in the middle of the lake on Weds around Milliken.  The 21 handled it very well, but my sea legs didn't wear off until the next day

BTW, I'm going back through the entire fuel feed system on the 200 Yammi and getting rid of the 10 zip ties that both Yammi used new and the marina used when rebuilding carbs. SS spring clamps are on order. My lower carb feed, which is impossible to get to without removing the intake manifold (or having very, very long angle pliers), has a finger tight ziptie on it that is leaking fuel and sucking air.  Nothing like troubleshooting fuel problems in bumpy seas

[Cayuga230]

All looks good that 200 on the 21 must scream.  We are fitting the boat out.  A dealer had it on Ontario for a couple of years so It lost everything but the outrigger bases and a stereo that didn't work.  Mechanics are all good and the engines started just fine.  I have a transom issue to address this winter but nothing I can't handle.  The 2 sea drives are heavy and so I have a small problem.  My wiring has some less than professional workmanship but most is not too bad.  Washdown is a bit sketchy but all seems to be working other than the courtesy lights.  I am haunting Craighslist for downriggers.  Just ordered new VHF and combo GPS finder.  I don't want to rob the mako.  as it will be the travel boat after next summer.  Lots to explore and the Mako is easy to travel.

[Hugh]

With a tail wind the other day we managed to read 47 mph before the lake got choppy.  That's not GPS and I haven't calibrated the Lowrance...so not sure if that's a real number...RPMs were at rated tho...5500.

I need to pick up another Cannon electric...I have an old Digitroll 2 and may try to match that with a used unit, as we're happy with its performance and don't think we need anything fancier...tho I'd like to see if that Cannon Ion attraction system is worth a poo.

If you're looking for downriggers, try the craigslist search engine at www.craiglook.com

I'm abandoning the port baitwell for anything other than keeping drinks cold.  If we need live swim bait we'll get a portable well and secure it on deck.  VHF is on my list, going with Icom.  GPS and Fishfinder combo are way down the list, as the old Lowrance is hooking us into fish every time.  It's comical...we have 4 lines out and I tell bro the lines are just passing over a lunker behind a log and whump...the line releases...very often with fish on the ball and on the cheater...so we drag in two fish.  This happened twice and set the tone for the day.  BTW, silver and gold flutter spoons....pink and white flies, mixed up with some smaller gold and blue, salmon colored, etc.

Throw some crazy Ivan's in there too...change in direction seems to encourage the chasers to hit.

I used the swill beer to keep the fish cold and to cut the caffeine jitters...I can't keep the balls off the bottom if I start drinking before 10am 

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