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Author Topic: Windlass - has anyone custom installed a windlass on their proline?  (Read 1369 times)
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proline241
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« on: April 15, 2009, 09:24:33 PM »

My 241 did not come with one, and although its a great work-out, I'm starting to get tired of pulling up hundeds of feet of rode each time I anchor over a wreck.   Has anyone done a custom install on their proline 241 or 25walk?  I've been trying to think of a way to do it, but it has to look good, and there isnt much room up there.  Suggestions? Cheesy
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a7ewizard
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« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2009, 09:43:30 PM »

I had a Horizon 500 installed on my 251 from the dealer I bought it from. It has been great! A bit tired now and in need of replacement but worth every penny. Thumbs Up

I don't know the difficulty in running the wires to the bow....there may be a pipe pre-installed to pull the wires thru. I would suggest adding remote switches by the windlass. I fish solo alot and these remote switches are very handy. They drilled a hole so that the rode runs over the gypsy and down into the storage compartment. I would think the 241 would be very similiar.

Warren
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'98 251 w/ VP 5.7 duo-prop
'06 24 SS w/ 225 Suzuki
van
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2009, 05:52:58 PM »

I did it on my 20 walk.  back trouble and it don't like hauling the anchor.
I used a large piece of G10 (fiberboard) its stronger than steel.  I made sort of a triangular piece the went over the line locker (took the door off).  The front end of the triangle has a straingt part that sticks out.  On this i attached the bow roller.  The windlass is mounted right over the locker so the line dumps in there.

I ran heavy gauge wire to a windass relay that operates via the switch on the dash.  added a 50amp breaker that i keep off when not is use for safety.

Hope that helps, I can post a pic eventually if you need.
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Good things come to those that bait......
proline241
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2009, 10:54:12 PM »

Thanks Van and Warren for the posts, 

Yes, if you get a chance please post a pick or two of the mount and how you have it secured.  Is it flush with the deck/gunnel?  I am handy, but learning to be boat handy - picture would be very helpful. 

Van, How much rode/rope dia are you able to put up there and still have the windlass drop the rope with a good lay?
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26walk
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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2009, 01:53:22 PM »

I have thought about it but when I look at the $$$$$$ I get sick.  What I have noticed were the guys using the red round fenders and an stainless steel ring that attaches to the anchor rope & fender.  The captain then pulls away from the anchored spot carefull not to get tangled into the anchor line and then allows the boat to pull the anchor up from the bottom, then you simply pull in the slack rope, red fender ball and eventaully swing the anchor onboard.  Seems for about a $125 I can get this set up to get my anchor vs the windlass system.  Of course if $$$ is no object more power to you. Popcorn
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a7ewizard
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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2009, 02:27:50 PM »

Thanks Van and Warren for the posts, 

Yes, if you get a chance please post a pick or two of the mount and how you have it secured.  Is it flush with the deck/gunnel?  I am handy, but learning to be boat handy - picture would be very helpful. 

Van, How much rode/rope dia are you able to put up there and still have the windlass drop the rope with a good lay?


My windlass is flush mounted. Nothing fancy. I have 30 feet of chain and 150 of rode....I could probably add another 100 feet if I wanted to. I anchor in the winter months when bait fishing for bass and sturgeon. I seldom anchor in over 30 feet but the currents are fast enough at times that I can't pull the boat against it. The windlass is a must have for me. Mine (dealer purchase and installed) came with a non-metal gypsy (the wheel that grips the rope/chain) and I have worn out 2 of them....so be sure to buy the metal gypsy.

Warren
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'98 251 w/ VP 5.7 duo-prop
'06 24 SS w/ 225 Suzuki
van
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2009, 06:08:55 PM »

Got some pics today.  I mounted it on that fiberboard right over the line locker.  You can see I had to add a pulpit as the bow did not have one.  You asked about the line and sometimes it does bunch up if I have a lot of line out.   but its not too bad, thats why I added the round access port. (in the pic).

You can also see the line chock thingy I added so i dont have to tie on to the cleat.  I just put it in there once and when I hit the button, it pops out and up she comes.

Hope this helps.
If you got more questions, fire away...
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proline241
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« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2009, 10:58:51 PM »

Van,  Great pics.  Looks good and gives me some good ideas.  Big help, thanks for the posts.

Warren, I have the same trouble.  In some currents/wind/waves, it isnt so easy pulling in the line, or really the boat trying to get over the anchor to break out without someone piloting.  It seems to get worse the deeper you anchor.  In fl I regularly anchored in 90-100ft depth over wrecks.  This meant at least 250ft of rope out.  I learned how to get over a wreck on the first drop quick, because I was in for punishment pulling that mess back up only to drop it down again if I missed.

26walk,  Yep, I rigged up one one of those balls in 07.  One day I gave a good show to a couple of other fishermen with it about 10 miles out.  Somehow I managed the impossible and got it wrapped around the prop.  Shocked I saw it coming and killed the engine before it got bad, but still had to get wet in 3-3.5ft/4 sec waves and undo several wraps.  And I thought it was rockin' in the boat... it was like a bucking bronco clinging onto that sterndrive trying to pull rope off in the water.  And I got the looks from other boats near-by.  Not saying the ball method is bad, it was completely my fault, thinking one thing and doing another.  Just sharing a story I can laugh about.  Thumbs Up The anchor balls work, and are a cost effective alternative to a windlass.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2009, 11:52:56 AM by proline241 » Logged
26walk
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« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2009, 05:29:14 PM »

Proline241
Sorry to hear about your incident.  Don't feel bad as I have my fair share of Boo-Boos out on the water and yes with onlookers, some even getting a good hoot watching Banging Head.  Oh well i have had a few laughs and "I can't believe he did that!" observations particularly at the ramp. Shocked
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brisprincess
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« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2009, 07:49:47 AM »

Hi guys.  Hope you don't mind me checking your posts.  My husband and I have a 21'  walk, and I have a problem with the anchor because of failed back surgeries Sad.  We are currently looking into getting a windlass and want to put it over the door for anchor line is.  A neighbor or ours has one on his 23' Proline and that is flush on the door.  If anyone has ideas/brand I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Joyce
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fats domino
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« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2009, 02:35:58 PM »

Windlass or Ball, that seems to be the question.  How about I throw out a third option.  A Sears lawnmower transmission belt driven by a 1957 Ford starter (the type where the bendix housing is not integral).  I built mine 20 years ago and have had it on two previous boats, and am going to install it on a 2610 walk I bought last week.  The transmission drives a S.S. drum with 300' of rope and 15' chain.  Built a S.S cover for everything except for the drum when complaints from the 1st mate (wife) were getting annoying.  She has long since changed her tune as we are now in our mid-sixties, and the joys of simple anchor pulling are no longer fun.  Originally I did this because I had used windlasses on alot of my friends boats and there always seemed to be problems with them.  The only problem I have had with mine was with the starter wearing the bushing on the shaft end due to the extreme side pressure.  I found a tractor starter end cap that used a bearing instead of a bushing and everything has been lovely since. Perhaps this will spark someones imagination to build one.
 
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