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Author Topic: Winterization 2011  (Read 99 times)
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Bruce03
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« on: November 21, 2011, 02:12:38 AM »

It's that time again and no longer can i stick my boat in a heated garage and be done with it.  My new (to me) 3250 will go up on blocks and I'm peering around at what others are doing and chatting it up, hopefully without sounding like a doofus. 

What is needed for winterization?  Below I've taken something California 231 wrote last year (credit/blame goes to him!) and perhaps others can add to it.  I think what Cal wrote is pretty good but it leads to more questions...


- What's a zerc?
- Non-toxic anti-freeze pink stuff in my drinking water?  What is this, leftover Tequila?
- A knowledgeable-sounding old geezer told me about pumping antifreeze INTO the holding tank thru-hull fittings.  I realize that on boats equipped with thru-hull fittings, water can collect at these lower extremities and pumping out will not empty this, so freeze/bursting danger.  Where else?

Here's the list from California 231:
•   Wash and dry boat, wax exposed fiberglass surfaces, clear leaves etc from any drains or limber holes.
•   Remove appropriate electronics and valuables subject to theft or weathering.
•   For boats subject to freezing, drain fresh water system or install nontoxic RV antifreeze.
•   Remove batteries and place on automatic trickle charger.
•   Remove drain plug, drain any water trapped anywhere in boat, cover, shelter, close all hatches and ports, stow exterior cushions in cabin or indoors, block up trailer axles, cover tires if exposed.
•   For fuel system , either drain almost completely OR fill completely, and add preservative or stabilizer (Stabil, Seafoam, Store N Start, Pri-g, etc.), dose to label mixture and be generous.  Change filter separator canister, drain carb if practical, if fuel injected run a bit of stabilized fuel through.
fog engine, close fuel valve, remove key.
•   For inboard or I/O also change crankcase oil and drive lube. remove prop grease shaft, store with i/o partly down to reduce boot stresses(spray silicone preservative on boot 1st) drain engine block and manifolds to prevent freeze cracking, replace prop if theft safe storage,
•   Spray protectant over exposed unpainted metals except anodes, place vermin traps etc. in boat bilge if storage area justifies, grease any zercs.
•   For outboards, change oil if 4stoke, change drivelube, grease propshaft and control/shift cables and steering and tilt points. fog 2stroke if mfr. allows
sun protect rigging pathways , fuel hoses, rubber boots etc. if appropriate.
drain motor well and be sure clear of trash and leaves if applicable.
drain water passages if rec by mfr., store in position rec by mfr.
•   Some mfrs. suggest filling engine cooling system with nontoxic antifreeze (reg antifreeze attracts and kills pet dogs if spilled or leaked).
This is often done via adapters or running with drive in large tub of liquid mix.
•   Cover or garage vessel safely.
•   Check on boat periodically after severe weather, snow, wind, rain, etc.
•   Make notes of what you did for reccommissioning time. (that's another story)
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Bruce
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Loose Rules V
1998 Pro-Line 3250
Merc LXi 7.4's, B3's
231CALIFORNIA
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2011, 02:57:10 PM »



ZERC spelling may be ZERK, just an old/ancient name for "nipple that grease gun attaches to" or "grease fitting".
dont know whats in various RV/nontoxic antifreezes and products, could be anything from the dreaded d'ethanol(tequilas active ingredient) to  polysomething godknowswhat, I will check a label.
dont know about through hull injection to holding tank but if there isa  loop or low spot it might help?
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Skipper 231 Walkaround
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