24 Super Sport baitwell/washdown mod.

[a7ewizard]

One of the first items I discovered with my used boat purchase was the single raw water pump plumbed to both the live well and the wash down. Sorry Pro-Line but this was very mickey-mouse Without a selector, the wash down was non-operational unless you tried to stop the flow into the bait well with your finger!

This is what I did. I mounted a Rule livewell pump directly to the seacock. I don't have my receipts and item numbers in front of me but this is the 800GPH replaceable cartridge model. The outflow is plumbed directly to the livewell. I bought a new demand type pump for the washdown system. The base of the Rule pump is made to "T" a separate raw water line. This line serves the supply side of the washdown pump.

The original demand pump was secured in the bilge directly below the access hatch. I discovered this hatch leaked and the pump was rusted and cruddy. I mounted the new washdown pump to the port stringer. I also removed and replaced the hatch so that it is now hinge side up. The pump is more protected regardless if this hatch still leaks.

I discovered also that my boat's dash electrical panel was pre-wired and had approximately 12 guage wire stubbed to the bilge. Easy splicing for the additional pump install. Maybe, the Proline engineer/moderator can shed more light on why or what this wire was run for?? In any event, the circuit breakers on the electrical panel need to be matched to the rated specs for the pump(s). Your Owner's Manual lists each switch and CB capacity. After you get it wired correctly, it is a simple last step to gently pry off and remove the switch cover and snap it onto the appropriate switch. For example, the Rule livewell pump is low amperage so I popped off the "livewell" cover and placed it there and used "ACC" for the switch that controls the washdown.

One more thing.........the 800GPH pump supplies too much water as it overwhelms the drainage capability of the drain mast. I suggest the 500GPH version. I also learned that there was a poor seal between the top of the livewell and the underside of the top liner. As water would leak past, it dripped down the interior sides of the livewell to drip onto the fishbox macerator pump. I have also had to replace this macaerator pump (Johnson TA3P-10) and used a BIG tube of marine silicone sealant to fully seal the livewells' upper edge.

Not a hard mod but takes some time and effort and it is well worth the trouble!!

Warren

[seabob4]

Warren,
I shall get back to you in a bit with my thoughts on how to properly rig a boat for a washdown and livewell.  Got something to do.

Bob C

[seabob4]

Warren,
First, I'd like to say you have an excellent boat there, and the mods you have done are the right way of doing things.  I would stay with the 800 as too much is way better than not enough.  The great thing with those type of Rule pumps (we actually use a Shur-flo 800 Bait Sentry) is that the pump is not being as a washdown pump, the lower fitting is simply acting as a second pickup.   

We, like many other builders, use model size and price point to determine how systems are set up and plumbed, whether electrical, mechanical, or plumbing.  As engineers, we often don't make those decisions, the bean counters do.  Unfortunate, but not exclusive to Proline.  Whaler, Pursuit, Grady, they all do the same thing.  Now, what you should have had on your aerator head in your livewell was the ability to shut it off, allowing full flow to your washdown.  Apparently, that wasn't the case, or, when trying to fill your livewell while using the washdown, you just didn't have the pressure.

Now, as far as the available wiring (hot and ground, I assume) in the bilge area, I assume the hot wire was brown with some colored stripe.  What color stripe was it?  At first I thought it might be for a macerator, but it seems you already have that.  The only wiring that I can think of as being unused would be for a transom mounted anchor light if you didn't have a T-Top.  Please let me know the wire color.

Good job on sealing the lip where the livewell tub and underdeck meet.  That is supposed to be glassed all the way around.  I would say it was tabbed, and someone went to break, if you know what I mean...

Any other questions, feel free.

Bob C 

[a7ewizard]

Bob C:

There are issues with any boat, whether new or used, at any price point...I think that is a realistic expectation. Also, many "issues" are in the eye of the beholder. You are serving on the front line, feed back from owners will make your products and quality control that much better.

Maybe a price point or an exclusive supplier issue but when the pump fails (as it will), it is alot easier to swap out the Rule cartridge than to wrestle with barbed hose fittings, while lying on your stomach, half way through a hatch with your arms fully extended into the bilge.

As to the color wire, I really can't remember. But it was already wired thru a "ACC" dash switch, 10 or 12 gage and ended just below the bilge access hatch in the same wire bundle that supplied the single washdown/livewell pump.

Warren

[seabob4]

Warren,
There is complete logic in your comments, yet often it gets lost on the powers that be as they are not the one's having to do the work when a pump/light/head fails and is out of warranty.  I do quite a bit of sidework (where I make my real money!), and I do the same work you just described.  Your 24 SS is a perfect example.  On your stomach, underneath the transom bench, arms fully extended into the bilge.  Been there, done that, many times! 

We walk a fine line between serviceability, design, cost, and accessability.  Most often we are overruled, and thus, the end result is what you have facing you.  I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but it is the norm in the boat building world.

I am speaking honestly and truthfully here, and I have put my name out here for all to see.  However, if I am to be honest and truthful with the members on this site, I ask that you not share any information or thought I write with the management at Proline.  I have a very good relationship with the powers that be, and I would like to keep it that way.

I'll gladly try to help with whatever I can.  But please keep our conversations here.

Bob C

[NICK392]

Warren,
I to have had similar issues with my washdown/baitwell pumps. I have a 2004 23 sport which I purchased in 2005. The previous owner put 4 rod holders along the top of the transom. Great for fishing, but it allowed saltwater to drip onto the washdown pump. The pump eventually rusted and seized. It didn't help that the hose leaked near the barb. The same happened to the macerator. I replaced the Johnson washdown pump with a Jabsco parmax 4 which also fills the baitwell. The baitwell has a spout with a small ballcock which I leave shut when not using. This gives the washdown max pressure. I also replaced the macerator with a Jabsco. I replaced both bilge pumps also. One is a Rule automatic 500 gph on a switch and the backup is a standard Rule 500 gph on a second switch. The automatic turns on every few mins and if there is resistence, stays on to pump the water. When there is no resistance it turns off. I also capped the bottom of the rod holders and added a small drip tube to the bottom to direct any water down into the bilge. I may eventually add a seperate baitwell pump but for now this set up works well.

Nick   

[a7ewizard]

Warren,
I to have had similar issues with my washdown/baitwell pumps. I may eventually add a seperate baitwell pump but for now this set up works well.

Nick   

I like the separate pump....In the heat of a wide open bite, I know I (or my guests) would likely close off the livewell to wash down the boat and forget about the livewell. Then we've ruined the rest of the day because the bait rolled!!

Pumps! I just replaced my macerator pump. First, while knocking out a tuna, I managed to hit the feather and sent shards of clear epoxy everywhere....of course a few pieces made their way into the fish boxes which ate the impeller. Later, when I tried to repair the pump, I found it was locked up because of the livewell rim leak. My 251 has the bellows type waste pump, That type is near indestructable.....although I did finally have to replace it when the electric motor died. One time I sucked a plastic bag all the way into the bellows....simply removed the top, pulled the bag out and it went on working. Not sure yet what I think of these impeller types. BTW, have you ever seen any SS wire mesh made to fit in thru-hulls to prevent contaminants from ruining a macerator pump?

Warren

[seabob4]

Warren,
I haven't seen any pre-formed wire mesh screens that would fit securely into a t/hull, but have you considered replacing it with a t/hull with a flapper?  How high above the waterline is your macerator pump discharge?

[a7ewizard]

The screen would be used on the inlet side, inside the fish boxes, to prevent fishing line etc from damaging the pump.

I suppose I didn't express my point very clearly.

Warren

[seabob4]

Warren,
Sorry, I guess I misunderstood.  Yes, they do make a screen, we used to use it at Wellcraft many years ago.  Let me do some searching and I can probably get them for you. 

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